Most of us have the dress-code rules when visiting a church in Italy: no shorts, bare shoulders, or mini-skirts. Bare shoulders would include sleeveless tops for women and men (yes, if he’s wearing a tank top, you can be sure he’s American.) I’ve heard of men being admitted in long, cargo-style shorts (not that anyone should be admitted anywhere in cargo shorts,) but you’re better off not taking any chances.
I’ve found the dress code to be pretty consistent throughout the country, however, many cities in Italy have very different customs and rules for church visitations particularly in heavily touristed cities like Rome, Florence, and Venice.
Venice has strict visiting hours in most of the major churches including St Mark’s Basilica. On Sundays the churches are closed to visitors until 2:00 p.m. to allow for masses to be conducted without the distraction of tourists. The churches will be available for worship to the public during mass, however you will not be allowed to wander about, and the larger churches will even have the service area roped off. I have never experienced this Sunday rule in any other major tourist area, but it’s worth checking out wherever you are.
Hours of visitation can vary within the same city. In Rome, for example, St Peter’s Basilica is open from 7 a.m-6 p.m in the winter, 6:30 p.m in the summer. Many, if not most other churches in Rome close for the midday riposo, from 1:00-4:00 p.m. Check online for visiting hours for any of the churches you want to visit, and even then, you can never be sure until you get there.
Read the signs at the entrances very carefully. Some churches are very liberal with allowing photography, even with a flash, while others strictly enforce the “no photos” rule – just try to take a picture in one of those churches and you will be yelled at by a guard. I’ve never figured out the reason nor found any consistency for this rule, so if you’re like me and hate to get in trouble, read the signs.
One of my least favorite things about churches in Venice and Florence is that many of them charge a set entry fee. I know, I get it, these churches are treated like museums and need funds to maintain the artwork, utilities, etc., but I have never seen a church in Rome that charges you to see it. (You will, however, always pay to “go up or go down”: ascending to the domes, descending into the crypts, or visiting relics, sanctuaries, or church jewels will cost you extra, but you can still see the entire church without choosing to pay more for these.) To be a complete hypocrite, I admit I’ve never been disappointed after paying to enter, and I’m usually treated to works of art by the Great Masters and tombs of popes, saints, and royalty; I always get more than my money’s worth.
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